An upgrade to lay flat seats meant I arrived Santiago fairly well rested. I coasted through immigration, caught a taxi to the Hotel Magnolia (sweet boutique hotel in the Centro). A quick shower and into those navy pants from the side pocket with a top I didn’t remember showing so much of my midriff. (Problem solved in a small shop – new linen shirt.)

If you scroll back a bit, or search the blog, you will see that Andy and I were here in 2022 so I had hit some of the highlights on that prior trip and was able to create a short list of key places to visit for this 36 hour segment of my trip.

First stop, the Pre-Colombian museum.
The Pre-Colombian Museum covers a large geographic area from current day Mexico to Southern Chile and displays mostly pottery, textile and tools of indigenous people from 5000 BCE to the end of the Mayan period (900 CE I think it was?) It was such a well organized museum with a strong educational component that I stayed nearly two hours.

Feeling peckish, I strolled through the Plaza des Armas and some shopping streets to Lastarria area. I had saved a restaurant in the area for Christopher and I to try so I made a quick look at that menu (yep, it would be good) and made my way to the Singular hotel’s rooftop restaurant for the view of the mountains and a late lunch. Ceviche, oysters from Chiloe and a glass of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. Perfect.

Warm weather, sunshine, and three hours before I will meet up with Christopher. I stop into my hotel and pick up my binoculars and head to Bicentennial Park to get a look at the landscape and see what birds I can spot. It’s a nice park with native grasses and flowers; it’s well cared for and enjoyed by lots of locals having picnics. Birds spotted but not photographed: austral thrush, variable hawk, and a yellow winged black bird. Photo is of a black necked swan.

The sun sets at 9pm and dinner at 8:30 feels about right, especially after a lite but late lunch. After an jovial exchange with the concierge at the W Santiago, our “pre-cruise hotel,” we head out to dinner at a spot not on my list. A swanky local food hall —very pretty but mediocre food—with lots of laughs and a spilled beer.

It was nearly 11pm when I called it quits for the day.

Why two hotels? Why not stay at the pre-cruise hotel the whole time? W is farther from where I wanted to spend time and I generally prefer the small hotels. With so little luggage, it’s easy to move. Plus, he and I will have 12 nights together, a little alone time at the beginning would allow us to settle in before rooming in.

Next up: Exploring the Yungay neighborhood with a visit to the Museo de Memoria y Derechos Humanos (Museum of Memory and Human Rights) and an unguided street art stroll. When you go to Santiago, this is a must-see museum, imho. I have written previously that museums like this one, that focus on the truth and reconciliation process are heavy with emotion but necessary. I learned a tremendous amount about Chile’s painful history, its struggle for democracy, and its ongoing work to honor memories, give space for grief and forgiveness, and to point out the work that is taking place elsewhere and still needed everywhere. It is very moving; very humbling.

A long stroll from the MMDH through the Yungay neighborhood to the Moneda (seat of government) put my over my step count and delighted with street art of various kinds.

Met Christopher for a delicious lunch at Bocanariz (the wine focused bistro in Lastarria) before making our way to the Bellas Artes and Contemporary Art museums. We stop off to get toothpaste at a farmacia—where I had to pay in the sex shop next door!—and then I bid farewell to the lovely staff at Magnolia and head for the pre-cruise hotel to check in, organize for the next day’s departure and sit down to write for a bit. (Christopher continues on for souvenir shopping and the fancy mall. Very on brand.)

A drink at the rooftop bar becomes a burger and hilarity that pushes us almost to 11:51pm. Sh…t! Our luggage is supposed to be outside our door in 9 minutes! So much fun. And the luggage was out soon enough.

36 hours.