Silversea took good care of us. I wasn’t sure how much I’d enjoy cruising but with only 190 guests on board (many of whom Christopher and I befriended), it was unexpectedly awesome. No sneeze guards or gorging. I’d call it a gathering of interesting international travelers, in casually elegant attire, eating great food, telling tall tales, taking in all the majesty that Antarctica could serve up and leaving with an appreciation and renewed commitment to our fragile planet. As a parting gift, we received this video. These are all taken from our voyage and it was the trip of a lifetime.

I didn’t go to Antarctica because I wanted to check this box. Many do. In fact, nearly half of the guests on our trip indicated that this would make SEVEN. My secret goal, now no longer a secret, is to have swam in every ocean. The Southern Ocean would be my fourth one. That is if I had the courage to do the Polar Plunge.

I hedged my bets by standing in shallow water but…really, that can’t count.

So it turned out that on the same day as I went for a walk on my seventh continent, January 2, I also jumped into my fourth ocean (Pacific, Atlantic, Indian, and Southern). The Arctic is next. Someday.

7 – Check! (From largest to smallest: Asia, Africa, North America, South America, Antarctica, Europe and Australia).

I had warned Christopher in advance that I had wanted to kayak. Luckily, he was game.

On our boat, the silver endeavor, there are two excursions per day (one in the morning and one in the afternoon) and 16 slots are available for each excursion, weather permitting. Each afternoon we received a briefing for the next days excursions and at the conclusion could sign up for one of those 16 slots. At 9 PM each evening, the names were posted on the observation deck bulletin board.

We were quick to sign up and as luck would have it we were chosen for the very first excursion. A morning paddle on New Year’s Eve!

We suited up, loaded into the zodiac, received our safety briefing, and transferred to the kayaks not too far from the shore.

We saw gentoo penguins —that’s them porpoising in the water and on shore—an Antarctic shag or cormorant, and a snowy sheathbill.

I was prepared for the worst.

A prescription for scopolamine, Dramamine and a relief band. The first night was rough. Seas were 4 to 5m high. But after that it was fairly smooth and I felt no motion sickness whatsoever. Even the side effects from the scopolamine were minimal (thirsty, dry mouth and dry skin).

The Drake Crossing takes 48 hours lasting from roughly 8 PM on embarkation day to your arrival at your first destination on the peninsula. We spent our Drake crossing getting acquainted with the ship, bio security protocols, and making sure our gear was inspected and ready.

I walked along the jogging track for 20-30 minutes and listened to a book (A Polar Affair by Lloyd Spencer Davis) about early polar exploration and the Adélie penguins before adjourning for our first briefing and some bubbly.

After late night shenanigans, thankfully we had no where to be until our noontime bus departure.

A leisurely breakfast and then the application of my Scopolomine patch. We take a bus to the General Aviation area of the Santiago Airport and board our private charter flight with Antarctic Airlines (DAP) bound for Puerto Williams.

Strong winds means we need a “technical stop” for fuel. This stop culminates in a change in aircraft and so we selfie again and roll with it.

Finally…and at the “fin du mondo” we embark!

On arrival we check in, passports scanned, credit cards laid down, and due to the lateness of our group arrival, its straight to the room (more below) and then an emergency drill. No ship can leave the port without first undertaking the drill, mustard stationing, and walk to the life rafts. Reassuring? Note to my kids, it all seems well organized.

Our suite is as we asked: two beds for traveling friends. Our complimentary parkas, backpacks, water bottles are in place. Our rented boots, poles, pants are all in place. The ship is only a few years old and the Deluxe Veranda is comfortable with a toilet separated from the powder/shower room.

And there is a welcome bottle of champagne ready for us. Which I can’t drink. Why not? That scopolomine patch. I am using the patch to prevent motion sickness. I am also using a relief band, AND some Aesop ginger flight therapy. So far so good!

Thank you Karen H for the advice — she warned me that it was best applied well in advance— which I heeded and it is working marvelously!

An upgrade to lay flat seats meant I arrived Santiago fairly well rested. I coasted through immigration, caught a taxi to the Hotel Magnolia (sweet boutique hotel in the Centro). A quick shower and into those navy pants from the side pocket with a top I didn’t remember showing so much of my midriff. (Problem solved in a small shop – new linen shirt.)

If you scroll back a bit, or search the blog, you will see that Andy and I were here in 2022 so I had hit some of the highlights on that prior trip and was able to create a short list of key places to visit for this 36 hour segment of my trip.

First stop, the Pre-Colombian museum.
The Pre-Colombian Museum covers a large geographic area from current day Mexico to Southern Chile and displays mostly pottery, textile and tools of indigenous people from 5000 BCE to the end of the Mayan period (900 CE I think it was?) It was such a well organized museum with a strong educational component that I stayed nearly two hours.

Feeling peckish, I strolled through the Plaza des Armas and some shopping streets to Lastarria area. I had saved a restaurant in the area for Christopher and I to try so I made a quick look at that menu (yep, it would be good) and made my way to the Singular hotel’s rooftop restaurant for the view of the mountains and a late lunch. Ceviche, oysters from Chiloe and a glass of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. Perfect.

Warm weather, sunshine, and three hours before I will meet up with Christopher. I stop into my hotel and pick up my binoculars and head to Bicentennial Park to get a look at the landscape and see what birds I can spot. It’s a nice park with native grasses and flowers; it’s well cared for and enjoyed by lots of locals having picnics. Birds spotted but not photographed: austral thrush, variable hawk, and a yellow winged black bird. Photo is of a black necked swan.

The sun sets at 9pm and dinner at 8:30 feels about right, especially after a lite but late lunch. After an jovial exchange with the concierge at the W Santiago, our “pre-cruise hotel,” we head out to dinner at a spot not on my list. A swanky local food hall —very pretty but mediocre food—with lots of laughs and a spilled beer.

It was nearly 11pm when I called it quits for the day.

Why two hotels? Why not stay at the pre-cruise hotel the whole time? W is farther from where I wanted to spend time and I generally prefer the small hotels. With so little luggage, it’s easy to move. Plus, he and I will have 12 nights together, a little alone time at the beginning would allow us to settle in before rooming in.

Next up: Exploring the Yungay neighborhood with a visit to the Museo de Memoria y Derechos Humanos (Museum of Memory and Human Rights) and an unguided street art stroll. When you go to Santiago, this is a must-see museum, imho. I have written previously that museums like this one, that focus on the truth and reconciliation process are heavy with emotion but necessary. I learned a tremendous amount about Chile’s painful history, its struggle for democracy, and its ongoing work to honor memories, give space for grief and forgiveness, and to point out the work that is taking place elsewhere and still needed everywhere. It is very moving; very humbling.

A long stroll from the MMDH through the Yungay neighborhood to the Moneda (seat of government) put my over my step count and delighted with street art of various kinds.

Met Christopher for a delicious lunch at Bocanariz (the wine focused bistro in Lastarria) before making our way to the Bellas Artes and Contemporary Art museums. We stop off to get toothpaste at a farmacia—where I had to pay in the sex shop next door!—and then I bid farewell to the lovely staff at Magnolia and head for the pre-cruise hotel to check in, organize for the next day’s departure and sit down to write for a bit. (Christopher continues on for souvenir shopping and the fancy mall. Very on brand.)

A drink at the rooftop bar becomes a burger and hilarity that pushes us almost to 11:51pm. Sh…t! Our luggage is supposed to be outside our door in 9 minutes! So much fun. And the luggage was out soon enough.

36 hours.

If you aren’t into these kinds of logistics, stop here. This post is for the packing geeks among us.

Santiago 🇨🇱 100 degrees 🥵 (2 days) followed by Antarctica 🇦🇶 -10 to 40 degrees 🥶 (12 days). Then the family convenes in Mexico City 🇲🇽 48-69cloudy 🌧 ☁️ (5 days) and Merida 🇲🇽 70-80 sunshine ☀️ (5 days)

See my problem?
If you don’t know already, I am fairly dedicated to traveling with a carryon compliant suitcase and a small backpack. Usually this is not difficult.
But Antarctica requires special gear: polarized sunglasses, goggles, glove liners, gloves and mittens, plus three layers of wool thermals, a layer of down and expedition weight – really thick – wool socks. On a research vessel I could live in those thermal layers 24/7. This is more of a luxury cruise and I’ll admit it, I want to look good.

So I need to have lounge wear and dinner attire that isn’t my long Johns—or at least not obviously. And with warm weather bookends in Santiago and Merida Mexico, I will need to include shoes that really multi task. Including a heel! Yep, our friend MariJo hooked us up with tickets to the premier of her new movie in Mexico City! Vanity dictates a special outfit and at least a little heel. Shoes are the key to packing light IMO.

Now that the challenge is clear, here’s my plan:

Pack Antarctica gear first: The ship provides a parka, and I am able to rent waterproof pants and boots. That lightens my load a bit.

So, in first go my expedition layers: Thin poly base layer; Icebreaker mid layer leggings (2) and Uniqlo (UQ) fleece lined pants; Icebreaker mid layer tops (2) 260 weight long sleeves, 260 halfzip, 300 hoodie); and UQ down vest (black and lavender) and UQ full sleeve (black).

Next the gloves (icebreaker liners, UQ mid layer, Acteryx outer layer), two pair expedition socks, goggles with lenses for cloudy and clear conditions, polarized sunglasses, hat, balaclava, neck gaiter.

All of the expedition gear I place in two Eagle Creek packing cubes. I am giving cubes a try this trip thinking I will benefit from the compression. Fingers crossed.

Finally the “mud room” shoe. After reading several other blogs, it was recommended that I bring a cozy set of shoes to slip into after the expeditions. Apparently when you return from being on the continent you slip out of your heavy duty boots and leave them in the mud room for sanitation. You need a shoe that you can slip into easily to walk back to your state room. Some people bring slippers that they can discard at the end of the trip; other people bring shoes that they don’t intend to bring back. I chose the latter. I am bringing a stretched out favorite with added shearling liners so that I can slip my socks off and my feet in to this toasty warm set of shoes.

For onboard (with only mild vanity) I packed four pants: black, olive, black/grey stripe, and an onyx. I then put tops and sweaters with them that could create at least three outfits each. My Jen George scarf elevates an outfit slightly and pairing the heel elevates slightly further.

I add a black icebreaker jogger, a workout legging/top, and my swimsuit (in case I have enough courage to take the polar swim or do laps in the pool while folks are eating on the perimeter). Undergarments, PJs (the kind that I can wear with a cabin mate that isn’t my husband).

My suitcase is already nearly full.

Shoes: I opt for a solid set of brogues, a flat, and the black heel. (Plus the mud room shoe.) At one point I had a broader array of color but in the end, I swapped the orange flats for a black pair. I shove them into the crevices along the edges of the suitcase after compressing those packing cubes.

95% full now. I have a thin exterior pocket that I will use for Santiago so that I don’t have to unpack for the two day stay. In goes my blue linen pant and a couple of tanks to hold me over.

No room for Mexico City and Merida. Using same set of pants but have additional casual lighter weight tops, plus a fancy top for the premier. (Which I can wear it for NYE on the cruise as well. How did I forget NYE attire? I throw in some corny necklaces and a black purse.)

I change tactics. I will place irreplaceable expedition gear in my backpack. Eagle Creek cube with gloves, goggles, etc. go into my backpack and Mexico/Merida clothing go into the suitcase.

Everything out. Mexico City/Merida go on the bottom. Then expedition cube and loungewear cube. Undies. PJs. UQ vests/parka. Shoes in crevices. Sit on it. Zip it.

Stuffed.

Backpack next. Said Eagle Creek with gloves, goggles etc. Binoculars. Birds of Antarctica Guide. Toiletries, sea sickness medicine. iPad. Chargers. Fresh shirt for when I land in Santiago. Contigo. Dinner on Duane 2023 tote bag. Blatant plug for Friends of Duane Park 🙂

Ready.

Sorry in advance about the formatting. It is easier to lay this out on a computer but as you can see, I left that behind. I’m tapping this on my phone from Santiago because I didn’t get a chance to post before leaving NYC.